During our freshman year of home haunting, it became painfully clear that we need more static props ... more eye candy.
Beginning late in 2004, we started assembling this prop, Waylighter.
Inspired by some of the many fantastic props by Steve Hickman and the Terror Syndicate, this fellow will hold a lamp or lantern .
Using p.v.c. pipe and fittings seemed like a good idea when building the armature.
The majority of the prop frame is made of 1 1/4" schedule 40 p.v.c. for strength and preliminary bulk.
The photos above show the original armature, followed by the modified version. One knee and one elbow joint changed from
45 degree "ell" fittings to 90 degree elbows in order to achieve this desired position.
Once satisfied with the pose, all of the joints were screwed together using 1" coarse thread screws.
Why not cement the joints together? Because we have to assemble the armature within our prop skins!
We ran a length of semi rigid poly tubing from the prop's right hand, down the spine, and (eventually) exiting the
left foot. This tubing will house the lamp wire.
Even though our Corkus latex skins were, for the most part, foam filled, there was still a small area at each
junction that was hollow. Just before gluing each latex joint closed, we packed the voids with
polyester fiber fill.
The body is taking shape at this point.
... The headless yo-yo champ ...
After joining all of the latex skins, we spent a good, long time trimming and seaming all of the joints and mold flashing.
Hole patching, blending, and touch up work to the seams helped smooth them out a little bit.
Prior to base coating the prop, a thorough scrubbing removed any mold residue from the skins.
The entire prop was base coated a light gray color.
The next step was to alternate layers of mottling color and blending coats.
This process gives the illusion that the skin is semi-translucent ... imitation depth.
This photo was shot at night under fluorescent lighting, so the prop appears darker and more "yellow" than it actually is.
This picture does, however, capture the eye detail.
Above photos show the prop with finished paint under better lighting conditions from a few different angles.
The pose is pretty good, and will look much better when he's on his stand (as opposed to the painting stand.)
The pose would have been better if the armature was custom made using small steel tube stock.
The p.v.c. armature is limited to the fittings available, and these impose length and angle requirements/limitations.
Truth ... p.v.c. can be heated and "bent," but that would defeat the purpose of using an "easy" armature material.
On the bright side, we'll add clothing to hide the imperfections, notably the left shoulder area.
Crepe hair was added to the prop.
Beginning at the base of the skull, a layer of dark gray mixed with meduim gray hair was glued down.
Move up the back of the head, roughly 1/2" at a time and gradually lighten the color mixtures with each layer.
By the time the last layer of hair is glued down, the temple areas received white hair, while the rest of the head was
topped with light gray. The eyebrows are also light gray and white.
A lesson regarding the pros and cons of using one's self as a general guide for measurements ...
Pro - Your model will be available whenever you're ready to sculpt.
Con - If something's just not right, you only have yourself to blame.
Pro - When the project is complete, you'll have proper sized clothing for the prop.
Con - Your entire family says, "So that's how you're gonna' look in a few years!"
Pro - You're content knowing your family members have a (collective) great sense of humor.
As mentioned earlier in this story, this character will hold a lantern.
Seven UV LED's and the appropriate resistor make up the center (vertical) row of light.
When power is applied to the board, they're "on." The two outside rows contain four UV
LED's and three flashing Blue LED's. Adding three flashing LED's to each outside circuit
produces an interesting random flicker-type effect.
For more information on this type of project, check these out;
A custom prop deserves a custom lantern!
The only readily available lanterns suitable for modification seem to be the kerosene "hurricane" lanterns
and ship's lanterns. While both have their charms, this fellow needs something a bit more unique.
The basic shape of this lantern is created by spreading two square pieces of 1/4" plywood with lengths of galvanized wire.
This wire is sold on a roll, so the shape was ready-made ... easy, huh?
The flickering LED module is placed in the enclosed portion at the base of the lantern.
A small DC fan is added to the top of the lantern, and a piece of lightweight black fabric hangs below the fan's exhaust side.
The intent is to combine the visual effects of a flickering light circuit and a "silk flame" styled effect.
The effect could be quite convincing if the "glass" portion of the lantern was translucent.
Unfortunately, we'll be using a more opaque shroud - so the fake fire effect will be mostly lost.
I've said it before, and I'll say it again - Trial and error are two big elements in prop building.
Sometimes you succeed, sometimes you fall short. With a little luck, you learn something.
The lantern's top is made by gluing pieces of single layered cardboard together.
The joints are concealed with masking tape, and the finished assembly is textured (and
sealed) by stippling on a couple layers of liquid latex.
The hanging loop is formed using more of the glavanized wire - anything would work.
The decorative rope look on the hanging loop is actually functional.
The circuit's electrical supply wires are wrapped around the hanging loop prior to painting.
The "glass" for this lantern is nothing more than woman's white tights.
It conforms perfectly to the shape of the lantern, and appears opaque until backlit.
Short lengths of 1/4" black poly tubing were split vertically along one side.
This split allows the tubing to open up and can then be positioned over the
wire frame of the lantern. It encases the white stretch material and creates the look of curved panes of "glass."
The individual panes are airbrushed with yellow then black paints to simulate years of use.
The lantern's exterior is painted with copper patina techniques.
A mossy green is stippled over the majority of the exterior.
White highlights are drybrushed on extreme angles and corners.
Not the best photo, but it does resemble a blue flame.
Our character is finished.
The wire exiting the palm of his hand is connected to the wires exiting the lantern.
The prop's finger is bent to "hold" the lantern loosely. The wires are secured to the finger with
light gauge fishing line as an added measure of security.
He was also given an additional layer of dress.
The cheesecloth serves no purpose other than my personal satisfaction.
Finally, the WayLighter as viewed at night.
The lantern burns a wonderful blue color, but not bright enough to light the prop.
A low wattage white light is added from a low angle to illuminate the whole prop and throw some interesting shadows.
That'll wrap this guy up.
He should earn his keep come October.