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Pop up part 2
Building A Monster


I finished  building his chicken wire exo-skeleton.




 I left large areas around each arm open.
The linkage needs a little over four inches
of room for travel.

I added two short pieces of 1 1/2" sch. 40 PVC
to the lower portion of the torso. These act
as guides for the bungee cords. They keep
everything straight and protect the cords from
 getting snagged on the wire.









Here is a better picture of the finished
wire body.
I made short "tubes" of chicken wire and
attached them to each part of the arm,
making sure nothing would interfere with the
arm movement.

The gaps at the shoulders and elbows won't be
visible once the prop is dressed.









So far everything has progressed nicely.
The only real problem I've encountered at this point
is forming the chicken wire torso in a way that it
will not make contact with the stationary portion of the cylinder.

I solved this problem by cutting away the center, bottom
area of wire that would be considered the "abdomen".








This is the prop so far.
I started with a simple pop -up
frame, consisting of an air cylinder
mounted to a metal frame.

I used a home - made PVC air
cylinder with this prop.


This prop was decomissioned
after it's 2002 debut.

Even though it performed properly,
the use of home-made pneumatic cylinders
(p.v.c. or otherwise)
is a practice that has been completely abandoned
by us at Vile Things.













This is the control set up I'll use with this prop.
(I apologize for the poor quality of this image.)
This is an ARO solenoid valve, purchased from
Grainger for entirely too much money.
I added a pressure regulator before the inlet. I purchased this
 regulator from Harbor Freight Tools for about $6.00.
This model includes a gauge.

I decided to add a regulator to each of my pneumatic props.
The price is right, and this an easy way to fine tune the
performance of each prop.

I can charge the main air line with a higher amount
of pressure, and adjust each prop individually.
This will certainly save MANY footsteps while the Haunt is
up and running.








This shows the prop at full extension.

The top of his head is now about
5 1/2 feet from the floor.

The arms extend slightly out
and slightly forward.
They reach up about 16
inches. After I add the hands,
this prop should reach a
very proud 7 feet tall.















I decided to make the robe for this prop
out of landscape fabric.

This is a "non-woven" weed barrier.
besides making a fine looking robe,
I suppose it could be used around
 your azaleas....









considering the arms move, I wanted the sleeves of this robe to be
Very loose - fitting.
I have no spare "Dead Guy" robes lying around the house, so I
broke out the scissors, needle, and thread. Other than the fact that I
 don't know how to sew, the only problem I encountered here was the
fabric I chose to use, (it's semi - stiff, as if it was starched)

This problem was solved by washing it. (easiest "fix" to date...)

This is not a nice fabric to work with. It's rough textured, and
tends to cling to itself somewhat, however, it's already black,
it costs 6 cents/square foot, and it looks like "Dead Guy" attire.







Here he is with the rest of his robe.

I pretty much cut out a huge bib.
I cut a slit to wrap around his "neck"
and let the pieces drape over his shoulders
 and down his back.

I cut two more slits for the arms.
This material, being four feet wide,
wrapped completely around the
 torso (loose at the "feet").

I added the forth piece around the
head... looks like a hood.











This is the prop fully
dressed, and fully extended.

He is starting to look  like
a prop. (finally)

In my next update
I'll include pictures of
the hand - making process.

I know hands are available for purchase,
 but they're easy to make, and you can make
 them in ANY shape, size, etc.












 Go To Part 3 - Making Monster Hands
Go To Part 4 - Assembly
Back to Part 1 - Pop Up Mechanism


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