Simple pop-ups
The photo (left) shows my
version of "the basics." This
is an angle iron frame with two
pieces of flat stock used as braces.
After Halloween, I'll loosen the
wing nuts and fold the legs up.
(I'm sure everyone knows about
off - season prop storage.)
I plan to add a prop head, some
hands, and a loose robe. When
fully extended, this prop should
stand just under six - feet - tall.
Update as of June 4, 2002 :
Well, I had an idea.
As much as I like the SIMPLE aspect of this prop, I have
decided to go one step ahead. I will use the force of the cylinder
to lift the prop body AND move the arms.
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Update June 28, 2003
Okay, so this update is a little out of order ...
First, I'd like to thank everyone for the fantastic response the the Vile Things version of a "Simple Pop-Up" prop.
I've met a lot of good people since putting this website together, and most of them because of this prop!
Follow the "Simple Pop-Up Revisited" link for more information.
-------------------------------------------------
Vile Things and its members will assume no responsibility
for any damage or loss that may occur before, during, or after the construction of anything presented on these pages.
--- IMPORTANT ---
This information is presented as reference material ONLY.
We do not suggest or support the use of home made pneumatic cylinders.
Without any guarantee of safe operation, please seriously reconsider
the use of any home made pneumatic actuator.
Our 2002 Simple Pop-Up prop was removed from service
immediately following the 2002 haunt.
The photo at left shows the 3/4" p.v.c. coupling I use to make this cylinder work.
I cut a groove in each end of the coupling.
I insert a rubber o-ring into each groove.
The coupling fits inside a 1 1/4" schedule 40
p.v.c. pipe with about 1/16" clearance.
These o-rings will fill this gap nicely, and accomodate any
imperfections in the 1 1/4" pvc.
The grooves keep the o-rings from sliding out.
The photo above shows the order of things.
From left to right:
3/4" schedule 40 p.v.c. pipe (Cylinder Ram, length depends on application)
3/4" p.v.c. coupling
3/4" p.v.c. cap
***You'll need to glue a short piece of pipe between the coupling and cap***
1 1/4" schedule 40 p.v.c. pipe (Outer wall of Cylinder, length variable)
1 1/4" p.v.c. cap
Here you see the cylinder
ready to be assembled.
I don't glue this joint, just in case the o-rings
need to be replaced. I do, however, use
three short sheet metal screws to
secure the joint.
Here it is, ready to go.
At the far left (at the end of the cylinder ram) I attached a 3/4" threaded male fitting.
I attach a 3/4" threaded female fitting to my prop. The prop is attached to the
cylinder by screwing the fittings together. This makes a strong, non-permanent joint.
At right (bottom of the cylinder assembly) I thread a male quick connect
fitting through the 1 1/4" p.v.c. end cap and the pipe glued inside.
The wall thickness here is almost 3/8" thick.
The following information is a very basic description
of some of the products I have used . This is not a
Pneumatics How -To.
This photo shows some products I choose to install on each pneumatic
prop. At left is a pressure gauge. In the center is a pressure regulator.
At right is a combination regulator and gauge.
This is my product of choice. I purchased several of these from
Harbor Freight Tools for about six dollars a piece.
These are not required to make a pneumatic cylinder work,
but they will provide more control.
Adjustments can be made to each cylinder individually.
This is a collection of solenoid valves.
Solenoid valves are not required to make pneumatic cylinders work.
These are used to automate the operation of pneumatic devices.
Simply put, these solenoid valves use electricity to open
or close an air valve.
There are many different types of solenoid valves.
Most of these pictured above are one - way valves, meaning they only perform
one operation (example: open when electric current is applied)
I use solenoid valves rated for standard household current (120 vac)
Valves are available with different voltage requirements, so
be careful when making a purchase.
Now that I have a cylinder,regulator, and solenoid valve, I will
need to connect everything.
At left are some fittings and hoses.
This tubing has a high pressure rating.
(at least 150 p.s.i.)
The white tubing at left is less
expensive, but the clear tubing
at right is more flexible.
Both are available at most
hardware stores.
These brass fittings are designed for
use with compressed air.
Left to right:
Female quick connect fitting .............................(male quick connect below)
Female quick connect fitting with male barb .....(nice feature- easy hook up)
1/4" male n.p.t. to male barb........................(barb is inserted inside air hose)
Threaded nipple........................(Used to connect two female threaded parts)
Teflon pipe threading tape..........................(recommended, but not required)
Hose clamps ........................(secures joint between barb fitting and air hose)
This is the bare -bones kit.
Special fittings, reducing bushings, etc. will most likely be necessary,
depending upon your particular application.
These fittings are usually available in most hardware stores.
Here are a few examples of possible pneumatic system connections.
The photo above shows a simple connection. At left is a male barbed fitting
secured inside a length of tubing with a hose clamp. The barbed fitting is threaded
into an air filter. A male quick connect is threaded into the opposite side.
The quick connect -type fittings make life a little easier. They provide a secure,
non-permanent connection.
Above is another example.
Left to right:
Male barbed fitting secured inside tubing with a hose clamp.
(This male barbed fitting is threaded into a Female quick connect fitting.)
Male quick connect fitting (silver) threaded into flow control / pressure gauge.
Female threaded coupling.
Male barbed fitting secured inside tubing with a hose clamp.
The photo at left showsthe pneumatic system for
Vile Things new Pop-Up.
Top to bottom:
Male quick connect threaded into regulator / gauge.
2" long brass nipple.
solenoid valve.
Male barbed fitting secured inside tubing with hose clamp.
10" air line.
Male barbed fitting secured inside tubing with hose clamp.
Male barbed fitting threaded into air cylinder.
More important than any of the parts and pieces listed above
is RESPECT for compressed air.
While compressed air is a fantastic method for prop moving,
it can be extremely dangerous when installed, used , or maintained improperly.
If you have any doubts, put the tools down and hire a professional.
(Better Safe Than Sorry.)
For more information on the use of compressed air
please visit Phantasmechanics.com......(Haunting with compressed air.)
