Switches
In the Hinton Haunted House, 2001, I needed a way to
switch some lights and sound effects for the Scrim Box effect.
I listed my options as:
1. Manually switch the sound and lights.
2. Use a motion detector - type switch.
3. Use 12 volt current to switch 120 volt supply.
I like the idea of manually switching effects, the timing is nearly
perfect. However, I couldn't be with the prop constantly. I needed
something automatic.
Motion Detectors are great, but the sensitivity adjustments aren't very
precise. Also, the "run time" is limited to whatever the Motion detector
offers, typically 5 seconds or 1 minute. ( Not a lot of options here...)
I used a pressure mat / switch to operate a 12 volt electromechanical relay. This
low - tech approach to prop control worked
fairly well for me.
The picture at left shows my 2001 switching device.
This is nothing more than a wall receptacle,
a twelve volt Electro Mechanical Relay,
a twelve volt power supply
( "wall wart"), a 120 volt power source (extension cord), Two #10 - 32 machine screws (Switch
contacts), and a project box.
Using 12 volts DC is a safer method of
switching AC current.
The photo below, although a bit over - exposed, shows how I was able
to use each side of the receptacle independently. The connecting tab on the "hot" side
(copper - colored side) was broken off, leaving me with two separate outlets.
One side is wired to the "Normally Closed" circuit of the relay. I used this for the room
lights. The second outlet is wired to the "Normally Open" circuit of the relay. This is used
for the effects (sound and lights).
Wiring the switch this way guaranteed that the Scrim effect would work,
since that effect is a lighting - based illusion.
One outlet is always hot, typically wired as the "Normally Closed" side.
The second outlet only activates when the switch is "pressed,"
and in this case, it is a momentary switch - if you were to jump up and down
on the (mat) switch, the lights would switch back and fourth.
That was my biggest complaint. I had no control over how long
the effect cycle would run.
I have seen several "Event Control Timers" at different Haunted
House Supply sites on the Internet. At around $50.00, the price
is good, especially considering some of the flexible features.
I built two different Event Control Timers for the 2002 Haunt.
The design is very similar to our 2001 timer.This unit has only one cord exiting the box.
The switch is wired to the spring - type
speaker terminal cup on the side.
A timer module was added to the circuit,
and this gives us the control we were
lacking in 2001.
The photo at left shows the "guts" of this box.I cut the extension cord close to the female end.
I used the female end to power the 12 volt
"wall wart" that powers the timer module.
The speaker terminal cup replaces the
switch that activates the timer module.
The wall receptacle is wired to the
module's output relay. This timer has
two "pots," The first adjusts the amount of
delay. ( when the effect is initially triggered,
there will be a delay before the output relay
is energized.)
The second pot adjusts the length of time
the effect runs.
I sketched a wiring diagram on the inside cover of the project box.
I'm not very good at electronics, and this diagram may come in handy
should I ever need to adjust or replace anything in the future.
Above is a better view of the inside of my "delay timer."
My 2001 relay switch was built from parts purchased at Radio Shack
and Home Depot. The hardest part of the construction was cutting the shape
of the wall receptacle with a Dremel tool. I estimate the total cost of the 2001
Relay Switch to be about $25.00 . I'm sure it could have been built for
MUCH less shopping elsewhere, but I was in a hurry...
The 2002 Event Control Timers were built from parts purchased from
MCM Electronics (with the exception of the extension cords and
wall receptacle).
Following is a list of parts (including part numbers)
# 28-4750
|
On Delay Timer Module (1 - 180 sec.)
|
$19.95
|
# 50-010
|
Spring Terminal Cup
|
$.89
|
# 28-3075
|
12 volt DC adapter (500 mA)
|
$3.99
|
# 28-6465
|
Fuse Block (1/4" x 1 1/4")
|
$.99 (X 2)
|
# 313.600
|
6/10 amp slo blo fuse pkg.
|
$3.89 / 5pcs.
|
# 313005
|
5 amp slo blo fuse pkg
|
$2.89 / 5pcs.
|
# 28-975
|
Project Box (4 5/16" x 7 1/16" x 2 3/8")
|
$4.39
|
# 108-300
|
Female crimp terminal (16-14 ga. /1/4")
|
$6.74 / 50pcs.
|
|
Wire Nuts (10 / 18 ga. yellow)
|
$4.00 /25pcs.
|
|
25 foot 14/3 extension cord
|
$4.00
|
|
Wall Receptacle
|
$.89
|
MCM Electronics also sells different (Cebek brand) timer modules:
Sequential Relay Module ( 4 or 8 relays in sequence)
Flip - Flop Relay Module
Single Event Timer Module
Sequential Dual Timer Module
Repeat Cycle Timer Module
Most of these modules are also available in different timed
lengths (1-180 sec., 2-45 min., 20-150 min. )
As I mentioned earlier, I'm not well versed in electronics, but I
was able to incorporate these timer modules into my boxes
using the instructions provided by the manufacturer.
