F.O.P.W. Part 4 - Assembly
October 6, 2002
It's been interesting, getting to this point.
What seemed like a simple, "fill in" type of startle prop
has become a collection of experiments. As with nearly every
Halloween prop I build, the completed version you see is the
result of many "learning experiences." It's not often that things
come together the first time.
The Fiber Optics Pneumatic Whips prop has been fun, though.
I gained some experience in many fields of home haunt
prop design and construction.
Here it is... the Vile Things "F.O.P.W." prop
The finished assembly is everything mounted to a piece of 1/2 inch
plywood. The only thing missing is the motion detection unit.
(more info. below.)
After the fiber optic cables were installed, I found
the air pressure (previously 60 p.s.i.) wasn't quite enough.
At 70 p.s.i., the effect is good.
Above is a closer view of the pneumatic portion of the
finished assembly. Air will enter the reservoir through the
pressure regulator at left. The solenoid valve at right will
allow the air to escape.
The single gang metal "handi-box" receives power from the
effect timer (more info. below.) This box will provide power for the
pneumatic and fiber optic portions of this prop simultaneously.
In the photo above you can see the electronic parts and pieces.
At left is the light box.
Next is a spring-type speaker terminal.
This will accept the signal from the motion detecting unit.
The last component is a multi -outlet power strip.
This power strip will always be "hot."
I will be using a PET II timing module from Cowlacious Designs.
This fantastic "Programmable Effect Timer" will allow for a
delayed "on time," a timed "on," and a post-effect "off time."
Since the Fiber Optic Pneumatic Whip prop uses a lot of air,
I can now control how often it will fire, in the event someone
figures out how to trigger the effect.
Above is the Motion Detection system that will
be used with the F.O.P.W.
I bought an Infared Transmitter and Receiver Kit.I decided these kits would most likely
live longer if installed in project boxes.
To control things in the "real world,"
You'll need to add a relay to the output of the
transmitter. The transmitter will activate the relay,
and the relay will "switch" the voltage, current, etc.
that you need.
MCM Electronics sells this handy little kit.6 amp SPDT Relay Card, item # 28-6344.
Requires 12 VDC, 80 mA for operation.
Input voltage is 3-12 VDC.
5 mA and up.
This kit was designed for use with other kits.
Above is an ***unfortunately necessary*** modification to the
transmitter kit. I had to add a lens (magnifying glass) to the transmitter.
The transmitter kit can be positioned within the housing to focus the
beam of Infared light on the receiver.
The blue housing is a short piece of 4" thin walled p.v.c. pipe.
It provides some degree of weather - proofing, and holds things together
(like the transmitter kit, the 9 volt battery, and the lens.)
The aluminum linkage will allow me to mount the transmitter
to the maze wall, accurately aim the beam of infared light, then
tighten all of the joints. (wing nuts are your friend...)
At left is a photo of the receiver enclosure.With everything mounted inside, all I have to
do is plug in the 12 VDC power supply,
and attach the relay in/out cable to the
spring-type speaker terminals. These terminals
are great for no-voltage connections.
The in/out cables run to the PET II on the
finished F.O.P.W.
That just about wraps it up.
The Prop will be positioned behind a fabric wall.
The latex tubing will pass through this false wall.
The receiver will be mounted to the prop, and the
transmitter will be mounted on the opposite wall of the hallway.
When someone passes through the ("invisible") beam of infared light,
the effect will run for five seconds. The prop cannot be re-triggered for
25 seconds, thanks to Cowlacous Designs PET II.
Visit Hinton Haunted House 2002 for photos of the finished haunt.
Was it worth it? ... Yes and no. The effect did startle people.
The final placement of the prop could have been better.
The hallway wasn't quite dark enough. The lights were visible,
but the hoses were also visible.