Controlling The Haunt, 2005
The Halloween season of 2005 will mark the fifth year that Vile Things has produced
home made props for display. Even though each year has only brought a couple of new things to the table,
those numbers are beginning to add up. These props are a collection of mine, sort of my resume.
Older props use 120 volt AC solenoids. Newer props use 24 volt DC solenoids.
Most light effects are 120 VAC, some timers require contact closure without voltage for triggering.
A challenge presents itself when you need to control all of these props in order to build a "show."
The current haunt is our personal yard haunt. It is a simple display, so the control element is simplified for us.
In a "typical" haunted attraction, several sets would be separated by hallways or corridors. Each set would
require its own control system. Our yard haunt will only require one control system, as everything will be on display
in the same area. Since the decision to build last year's yard haunt occured late in the build season, there wasn't enough time to
design and construct a central control system. This resulted in a crude last minute "hope for the best" approach.
To improve on last year's lack of planning, we'll tackle;
1. Controlling props that have different power requirements.
Some props have 120 volt ac solenoids. These were wired to receive 120 VAC from the triggering source.
Some props require 24 volts DC from the trigger.
Other props (Having event control timers built in) require only switch closure for activation.
2. Controlling props that may or may not time themselves.
Earlier props were designed as part of a room or set. Some of them were to be manually operated, so
they had no timers. One of us would physically activate them for a period of time before turning them off.
Other props were built to work together, so one or more props received control signals from one timer.
3. Dog On A Chain Haunting
Manually controlling events has to be the most effective method. No wasted scares, no needless prop cycling.
The timing is likely as perfect as possible. However, somebody has to man the controls. This individual will be credited for
putting on a good show, but she/he will also be prohibited from enjoying the show. It would be unfortunate to work so hard for the
sake of a successful event, all the while missing out on the fun. That's a truly selfless act, which will hopefully become unnecessary!
Which components, and why?
Sprawling Delusions Delusional Key Banger.
I was fortunate enough to meet and spend a little time with the owner of Sprawling Delusions.
He builds and offers, for sale, some of his clever control boards through his website.
This nice unit is programmed in real time, by pressing the B1 through B6 keys as you would have
the corresponding outputs "on." This very much plug-and-play controller can be rewritten as necessary,
and stores your programmed commands even when power is removed.
Instead of controlling one six-function prop, We'll be using this little gem to run (6) single function
props/effects in sequence, as a programmed show. By removing a jumper wire from the unit's input bus,
The programmed sequence of events loops constantly. This will create an auto pilot for the haunt.
If, for whatever reason, nobody is available to trigger the props, the Key Banger will keep
at least some things going in our absence.
Light Object 12 Channel Wireless Remote Control Relay Board
One of Ebay's great finds in 2005!
You'll get a twelve channel relay board with RF remote receiver, as shown above, and
a small twelve button remote sender. The specs. boast of a 300 meter transmit/receive range, but
I was only able to travel part of that distance without interruption, which is perfectly acceptable
for our intended application.
The relay outputs can be selected to latch on and off, or momentary on/off. (All twelve, not independently assignable.)
We'll go the momentary route ... as long as you hold the botton, the prop/effect will be "on."
Essentially, you press a numbered button on the remote, and the corresponding relay
activates on the receiver board. That means the operator can go *anywhere* and still perform
the assigned duties. No more Dog On A Leash haunting for us! ... Freedom!
LightObject has a support page containing some information regarding this product.
Secondary Relay Cluster
To use both components listed above as part of a single control board, The output signals are
routed to the relay cluster. The six Key Banger outputs will share relays with six of the wireless
ouputs. While the programmed show is running, we still have access to each prop/effect independently.
The remaining six relays in the cluster are controlled by the "leftover" six from the wireless board.
While these aren't necessary now, it allows room for additional (future) show controllers without having to
rebuild the whole control board.
The relays in the cluster are capable of switching "any" load; DC, AC, large, or small. Within reason,
we can control any on/off effect using these relays. You can buy new relays from most electronic or
mechanical suppliers, or you can find a great deal at auction, often including the socket bases,
making hook up much easier.
Our 2005 Haunt Controller
(The photos in this section are links to large versions.)
These full-view photos show the early stage of assembling the control board.
Closer views of the same stage.
At this stage of assembly, the wireless unit operates relays 1-8.
The Key Banger and wireless unit both actuate relays 9-12 of the outlet relay cluster.
After testing, the Key Banger was wired to control six output channels, as described below.
A plexiglas top is added to the control board. This serves two purposes ...
It provides some protection/isolation from accidental contact with any live hot spots.
It's used and scratched, but it is transparent ... we can see that the Power is on, the relays are working, the
Key Banger is cycling, etc.
We also need a thin material in order to properly mount push button switches.
These switches and prop control wire connections will be mounted on the plexiglas top.
This is a rough drawing created to map out the wiring of the controller, pre-interface section.
As usual, nothing technical ... just a general guideline.
HUGE thanks to James and Sprawling Delusions for the help with this arrangement.
Due to the switching nature of the Delusional Key Banger, I ran into an obstacle when merging the outputs
of the Remote Relay Board and the Key Banger. The drawing above shows the proper wiring configuration
for connecting both units (of different output voltage/current) to a shared secondary relay.
After learning the correct method of wiring things, the board adopted a few safety features.
Okay, it doesn't look like much, but this is a safety/disconnect for one Key Banger output.
It's a basic mini toggle switch, ON/ON configuration (but could be ON/OFF, ON/OFF/ON
just as well) that will physically remove one Key Banger output signal from the rest of the controller.
These switches were added in the event one channel fails, the timing is off, or the prop fails.
The entire program will continue to run, but each channel can be switched on or off without the need
to change any wires.
In addition to the switch, a 1N4007 diode was wired inline (in the appropriate direction.) This diode will prevent any undesirable
voltage traveling "backwards" from the relay coils or remote unit relays. The last thing we want is to "power" the
Key Banger outputs, rendering them useless.
It was a minor expense in parts and labor, but the benefits are definitely well worth it.
Connecting the props to the control system
This is the easy part! All that's needed now is to attach one control wire from each prop to the
"normally open" (NO) contacts of the output relays. When the relay is activated, it essentially completes
the circuit required to power the prop/effect. The relay performs the duty of a switch ... basically.
The photos above show the plexiglas top, removed from the control unit.
(Overhead view of "top" , View of underside.)
Spring terminals and momentary pushbutton switches have been mounted.
At this stage, the wiring process is half way done.
These speaker spring terminals are my connectors of choice.
MCM part number 50-010
I use one at each prop, and one per controller connection point.
This makes connection between the two incredibly easy.
Strip the wire ends, connect, and you're done! No tools, no fittings, less worry.
Bulk cable, such as paired lamp cord or speaker wire works perfectly with this arrangement.
Inline with the input connections, I added momentary switches.
MCM part number 26-040
These can be used to control the props/effects, but are mainly added to test each channel during set up.
Cheesy graphic illustration? Yes ... but descriptive? hopefully.
In the lower left area of the image above, the Negative (-) wire from Power Supply to Prop is interrupted.
By controlling whether or not negative voltage flows through this wire, we control the effect as "on" or "off."
For illustrative purposes, the negative wire is colored two shades of green. This is only used to differentiate between
open and closed status of the circuit. When the relay is activated, continuity is established between
its input (common) and output. (in this case, Normally Open, "NO".) When these contacts are pulled
together by the coil becoming energized, the power is allowed to flow through the circuit.
If the momentary pushbutton switch is pressed, this also establishes continuity.
This applies even if the relay coil is not energized. By adding the inline momentary switch,
the effect can be manually triggered at any time.
One of the main reasons for using relays to control props/effects is versatility.
All relays in the output cluster are controlled using like voltage. In this case, 24 VDC.
However, providing that these relays are rated accordingly, they can be used to "switch"
loads of differing current, voltage, or continuity.
Aside from using wire capable of carrying the load, these relays can switch AC solenoids, lights,
DC solenoids, motors, etc., ... almost anything we need to control, all from a central control system.
Each "channel" of our controller is connected to one relay in the output cluster.
One wire in, one wire out ... when the relay contacts close, the assembly acts like one wire, allowing the
"information" to flow, completing the circuit. It could be the common wire in a 120 volt AC circuit, or the negative voltage in
a DC circuit, possibly continuity needed to activate controllers like Carl Cowley's PET timers.
And finally, the finished 2005 haunt controller.